Recommended Introductory questions

• Are you knowledgeable about historic styles and techniques for... (fill in with the specific work you’re looking to have done - example, “trim,” “masonry” etc.)?
• Do you have a portfolio for historic restoration work you’ve done for homes like mine?
• For my style of house, what would you do for this type of work (FILL IN AS ABOVE)? (If you are curious about how to ID the style of your home download The Salem Handbook here.)
• Are there alternative ways to accomplish what I want? What are the pros and cons?
• What problems could we encounter?
• Are you insured? 
• Are you certified/licensed for work in your field?
• Does your firm practice preservation-minded/restorative techniques?
• Do you have experience in other fields? ( painting, carpentry, roofing etc) What level of experience do you have?
• Do you have connections to related trades (i.e. does the painter have a carpenter they work with)
• How long will this project take?
• Will you personally be doing the work? If not, what are the qualifications of the crew?
• How will you protect nearby areas, specifically historic details of the house?
• Have you done similar work inside the Local Historic Districts? Do you think the Salem Historical Commission would allow this type of work?  (This question is key if you are in a Local Historic District, but can also be useful if you are outside a Historic District and want to meet high preservation standards.)

Deep Dive questions - (based on the Secretary of Interior standards)

Masonry

• Identify the type of material used:
  • Man made: brick, terra cotta, adobe, stucco, concrete, etc.
  • Natural: granite, limestone, sandstone etc.
• Will you maintain or restore existing masonry materials? If replacement is necessary, will you replace using matching materials?
• If cleaning masonry is being done, make sure to use gentlest means possible. Use low pressure water and natural bristle brushes with detergents.
• If mortar joints are deteriorating, be sure to identify the underlying cause of the failure. Is it being caused by leaking roofs or gutters, capillary action or building settling, etc?
• What is the mortar that is used? Lime based or portland cement, etc? Be sure to use compatible materials.
• Avoid removing existing mortar that is in good shape in order to create uniform appearance when repointing failing mortar.

Wood/Painting

• Be sure to retain existing wooden architectural features that contribute to your house’s historic character. Ask your contractor if they will be restoring existing wooden details, or if they cannot be restored, if they are capable of producing matching re-creations. 
• Ask if limited, in-kind replacement can be done if wooden features are only partially damaged.
• Protect wooden exterior features by ensuring water is properly draining and not damaging underlying substrates. Ask your contractor if they can identify the underlying reason why wooden architectural features are in need of intervention.
• When painting of wooden features is being undertaken, ask your contractor to use the gentlest means possible to prepare the surfaces. Hand scraping and sanding is preferred, taking care to use more intensive means like hot air guns and chemical strippers only when absolutely necessary.

Roofs

• Most houses have asphalt roofing, but if your house has slate, wood shingles, clay tile, or another type of historic roofing material, ensure that it is retained. 
• When roof replacement is necessary, make sure that the underlying sheathing is in good shape and that your attic is properly ventilated, depending on its construction type. 
• Avoid alterations to the roof profile that changes its architectural appearance, like the addition of historically inappropriate false gables.

Windows

• Windows are incredibly important to the architectural style of a house. If any window work is being done on a historic house, make sure your contractor knows what type of window is appropriate for your house (link to guide)
• Most windows in historic houses are made of wood, and are designed to be repaired. If your window is damaged, rotted, or leaking air, rather than replacing the entire thing, find a contractor that is able to repair the parts of the window that are defective. 
• Windows that are drafty are often blamed for high energy bills, but replacing them is not your only option. Existing windows can be fitted with weatherstripping, and re-glazed to make them air-tight. (Link to more resources on historic windows and energy efficiency)
• Old windows are subject to lots of movement, friction and moisture. Make sure that if you are restoring a historic window that the wood will be reconditioned using linseed oil.​